Thursday, February 09, 2012

Bem-vindo a Ekaterimburgo.
Welcome to Ekaterimburg.


Black Tulip memorial I.
Originally uploaded by Andreas Toscano.
O ultimo destino de 2011 no meu atual giro pela Rússia foi Ekaterimburgo, mais uma das cidades grandes da Sibéria (a quarta maior da Russia). Se fosse para definir esta cidade, eu diria que é uma versão mais urbanizada (no sentido de modernidade e de desenvolvimento) de Irkutsk, mas sem a beleza natural de Krasnoyarsk. Ou seja, é uma cidade bem cuidada, com uma visível aura artística (um dos street artists mais famosos do pais vive lá) e com estabelecimentos que poderiam muito bem estar localizados em Moscou.
Melhor do que descrever a cidade é olhar as fotos aqui. Mas vou falar de 2 monumentos que merecem atenção especial.
O primeiro estava no topo de todos os guias de atracões turísticas e chama-se monumento QWERTY. Não, esta não é nenhuma palavra russa que o seu computador não conseguiu ler. São as 6 primeiras letras de qualquer teclado. O monumento nao é nada mais do que o maior teclado do mundo. A diferença é que esse aqui é feito de concreto. Apesar da fama, a prefeitura detesta o monumento e resolveu se livrar dele. Por sorte, a prefeitura de Perm (cidade carente de atracões) se ofereceu para hospedar o teclado gigante e ele terá um destino mais digno que o deposito de lixo municipal.
O segundo é um monumento dedicado aos soldados mortos na Chechênia, chamado Tulipa Negra. Este poderia ser apenas mais um entre as dezenas de monumentos dedicados a soldados (famosos ou desconhecidos), mas não é. Além de ser muito maior do que os outros, o soldado retratado aqui não está posando de herói, nem vestido para guerra. Ele está sentado no chão, cabisbaixo, numa pose em que é impossível dizer se ele está fatigado ou refletindo sobre a utilidade de uma guerra.
Para finalizar, é preciso dizer que a melhor agencia de propaganda da Rússia fica lá. Há anos, Voshod vem mostrando que é possível fazer propaganda boa, de nível mundial, independente de networks, budgets e clientes multinacionais. Talvez seja um reflexo ou uma consequência da visível aura artística que a cidade tem.

Fui.

The last stop in my 2011 Russian tour was Ekaterinburg, one of the big cities of Siberia (the fourth biggest in Russia). If I had to describe it, I'd say this city is a more urban (both in the sense of modernity and development) version of Irkutsk, but without all the natural beauty of Krasnoyarsk. Meaning that it's very well taken care off, it has a palpable artistic aura (one of the most famous street artists in the country lives here) and several venues that could easily be located in the heart of Moscow.
Better than trying to describe the city with words, I recommend you look at the pictures here. But I'd like to talk a little bit about 2 monuments that deserve special attention.
The first one is the top attraction in any tourist guide and is called monument QWERTY. No, this isn't a Russian word your computer is unable to read. These are the first 6 letters in any keyboard. The monument is nothing but the biggest keyboard in the world. Only this one is made of concrete. Despite the fame, the city mayor hates the monument and decided to get rid of it. Luckily, the city of Perm (in need of attractions) offered itself to host the giant keyboard and it will have a destination better than the city dump.
The second one is a moment dedicated to all the soldiers that died in Chechen, called Black Tulip. This could be yet another monument dedicated to soldiers (famous or unknown ones), but it isn't. Aside from being way bigger than the other ones I've seen so far, the soldier portrayed here is not posing heroically or even ready for combat. He's resting on the ground, with his head down, in a way that makes it impossible to say whether he's resting or wondering about the pros and cons of the war.
Last, but not least, as a creative I have to mention that the best ad agency in Russia is also there. For years, Voskhod has proved that it is possible to do great creative work (world class level) regardless of networks, budgets and multinational clients. It's probably a sign or a consequence of this visible artistic aura this city has.

Cheers.

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Gostei de saber por você que é da área, que a Russia tem, nesta cidade, uma agencia de qualidade e numa cidade que transpira arte. Que escultura maravilhosamente reflexiva. É uma das artes que amo. E, como você é uma obra de arte se espalhando pelo mundo ... amo mais você. bj da mama

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