Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Bem-vindo a Sarajevo. Nao se deixe enganar pela foto. Welcome to Sarajevo. Don't let the picture fool you.
Bom, agora que eu jah tirei isso do peito, posso falar de outras surpresas de Sarajevo. A primeira, claro, se deve aa minha falta de cultura pois eu deveria saber que esta eh uma cidade Muculmana e nao Catolica. Qual nao foi minha surpresa ao chegar lah e me deparar com diversas Mesquitas e cafes “Turcos”. Mas Sarajevo tambem abriga as outras religioes com igual respeito, razao pela qual a cidade eh chamada de “Jerusalem da Europa”.
A segunda, foi a importancia da cultura (em especial do cinema) na vida da cidade e na preservacao da identidade nacional. Durante o Festival de Sarajevo, notei que a quantidade de filmes nacionais (ou ateh locais) nao condiz com o tamanho da economia do pais. Estah claro que as pessoas e cineastas se mobilizam para fazerem as coisas acontecerem. Existe um significado mais profundo no cinema daqui: ele eh mais do que uma apenas uma maneira de ganhar dinheiro. Por falar em cinema, sugiro dois filmes que e vi no festival: “A Vila Sem Mulheres” e “Las Acacias”.
Eu ainda poderia falar sobre a natureza ao redor de cidade, sobre como as arquiteturas (Sovietica, Austriaca, Hungara, etc.) se misturam harmoniozamente, sobre os monumentos e pontos turisticos, mas isso voce pode ver por conta propria em qualquer guia turistico. A unica dica que eu vou deixar aqui eh comer na “Casa do Despeito”, uma casa que os monarcas Austro-Hungaros tiveram que transportar, tijolo por tijolo, de um lado do rio Miljacka para o outro. Ok, mais uma dica: nao deixe de conhecer Sarajevo.
When I was a teenager, I used to love a Brazilian rock song that said “Sarajevo is a quiet place compared to Rio de Janeiro”. I felt like the criminals in Rio were ruthless and it was cool. But what sounded accurate back then, now sounds like a bad joke. It’s not even concievable to compare Rio de Janeiro and Sarajevo when it comes to violence, opression and hardships. Without even talking about the countless invasions the city suffered thoughout history, the Bosnian War was resposible for the death of 10.000 citizens and some 50.000 wounded. A siege that lasted over 3 years (the longest in modern warfare), over the whole city (not just in the hoodlums), and during which people couldn’t even walk the streets without being shot by the snipers placed in windows all over (they would even shoot stray dogs to scare people). The scars of this battle are scattered all over the city buildings and walls. It’s hard to imagine what people had to endure, locked in their homes, for almost four years in order not to die.
Ok, now that I’ve taken this off my chest, I can talk about the other suprises Sarajevo had in store for me.
The first, of course, was a result of my overall lack of culture because I should have known that this is a Muslim city and not a Catholic one. You should see how surprised I was when I saw all those Mosques and “Turkish” cafes. But Sarajevo welcomes all religions alike. No wonder it’s called the “Jesuralem of Europe”.
The second surprise was the importance of the role played culture (especially by cinema) both in the life of the city and in the preservation of the national identity. During the Sarajevo Film Festival, I noticed that the number of national (or even local) films is extremely high for the country’s economy. It’s obvious that people and moviemakers bend over backwards to make things happen. There’s a deeper meaning for cinemaa here: it is more than just a way to make a buck. Speaking of cinema, I suggest you watch two of the movies I watched in the festival:
“Village Without Women” and “Las Acacias”.
I could talk about the nature that surrounds the city, about how the architechture seemlessly mixes the (Soviet, Austrian, Hungarian, etc.) styles, about the monuments and sights to see, but you can find all that in your Travel Guide. The only thing I’ll suggest is that you eat at the “House of Spite”, a house the Austrian-Hungarian monarchs had to transport, brick by brick, from one side of the Miljacka river to the other. Ok, one last suggestion: go to Sarajevo.